"Basically, in life, rule of thumb: if you don't absolutely have to clean anything, don't clean it."
“根基上,糊口中有一条经验法例:若是你不长短洗不成,就不要洗。”
Fashion designer Stella McCartney said this in an interview with the?Observer?this weekend, adding that she picked up the tip while working for bespoke tailors on London's prestigious Savile Row. Instead, she says, the "rule" is to "let the dirt dry and you brush it off".
上周末,时装设计师斯特拉·麦卡特尼在接管《不雅察家报》的访谈时如是说。她还弥补道,本身是在为申明显赫的伦敦萨维尔街制衣店打工时学到这一诀窍的。她指出,常规做法是“让污垢风干然后刷失落”。
It may have been a throwaway comment at the end of the interview, but something about this line stuck with readers - many of whom have been doing several loads of laundry a week.
这或许只是在访谈结尾随口说出的谈吐,但这句话包含的内容却让读者记忆犹新——很多人每周都要洗年夜量衣服。
So does she have a point? Is it better to avoid washing your clothes?
她说的话有事理吗?不洗衣服是否是更好?
Killing the planet one microfibre at a time
洗衣服脱落的微纤维正在一点一点地扑灭地球
This isn't the first time McCartney has recommended not washing our clothes. In fact, she has long advocated avoiding the washing machine - both for the longevity of the garments, but also because of the impact washing them has on the environment.
这不是麦卡特尼第一次建议不要洗衣服。事实上,长时候以来她一向倡导尽可能不消洗衣机,既是为了耽误衣物的利用寿命,也是由于洗衣服会对情况造成影响。
Laura Diáz Sánchez, from the Plastic Soup Foundation advocacy group, agrees with this, particularly when it comes to high-street clothes, which contain more synthetic materials such as polyester and acrylic.
来自塑料汤基金会的劳拉·迪亚兹·桑切斯赞成这一不雅点,特别是尽可能不洗贸易街买来的衣服,这些衣服所含的聚酯纤维和腈纶等合成面料更多。
"Every time we wash our clothes an average of nine million [plastic] microfibres are released into the environment," she tells BBC News. "The way we wash our clothes affects this, as well as the way our clothes are made - but the more we wash our clothes, the more microfibres are released."
“我们每次洗衣服,均匀会有900万个(塑料)微纤维开释到情况中,”她告知BBC新闻说,“我们洗衣服的体例和衣服的建造体例城市影响情况,洗衣服越频仍,开释到情况中的微纤维就越多。”
When you do wash, she recommends setting the machine to a lower temperature and using liquid detergent: "Powder detergent creates more friction between the clothes [during washing], so more fibres are released, whereas liquid is smoother. The less friction there is in general, the fewer fibres are released."
若是你必然要洗衣服,她建议将洗衣机调到冷水模式,而且利用洗衣液:“洗衣粉(在洗涤进程中)会在衣服之间制造更多磨擦,是以会开释更多的微纤维,而洗衣液则更顺滑。整体上,发生的磨擦越少,开释的纤维就越少。”
She advises against overloading washing machines for the same reason - fewer clothes in the drum means there's less friction.
她不建议把洗衣机装得太满,也是出于一样的缘由——桶里的衣服越少,意味着磨擦越少。
The art of caring for clothes
护理衣服的艺术
But it's not just about microfibres. Washing an item of clothing too often can drastically shorten its lifespan, meaning that you're more likely to throw it out and buy something new.
但这不但仅关乎于微纤维。过于频仍地洗一件衣服会急剧缩短这件衣服的利用寿命,这意味着你会更早地扔失落它往买新衣服。
Prof Andrew Groves, head of the fashion design course at the University of Westminster, tells BBC News that the friction in washing machines is what gets rid of the stains, but is also what distorts a garment's shape and color.
威斯敏斯特年夜学时尚设计课程主管安德鲁·格罗夫斯传授告知BBC新闻说,洗衣机内发生的磨擦可以往除污渍,但也会让衣服变形失落色。
"I have garments in my wardrobe that I've had for decades that look brand new, simply because I know how to care for them," he says - adding that this goes for both high-end and high-street pieces. The better you look after your clothes, he says, the longer they last, and the more sustainable your fashion is.
他说:“我衣柜里有一些衣服已买了几十年,看上往仍是极新的,就是由于我知道若何调养它们。”他弥补道,不管是高级衣服仍是贸易街衣服都需要调养。他说,你越长于调养衣服,它们的利用寿命就越长,你的时尚也就加倍可延续。
This is particularly true when it comes to lingerie. McCartney told the?Observer?that she "wouldn't change my bra every day", which is something lingerie designer Naomi De Haan agrees with.
对亵服来讲尤其如斯。麦卡特尼告知《不雅察家报》说,她“不会天天换胸罩”,亵服设计师娜奥米·德·韩也认同这一做法。
Ms De Haan's official advice to people who buy from her label, Edge O' Beyond, is to hand-wash the bras in lukewarm water after about five wears with something mild like baby shampoo.
德·韩密斯对采办她品牌Edge O' Beyond产物的用户给出的官方建议是:在穿戴胸罩五次后,用婴儿洗发露等暖和的清洗液在温水中手洗。
While the items she sells are more on the luxury end, she tells BBC News that this advice applies to high street underwear as well - though she says sports bras should be washed more often.
固然她出售的胸罩比力高级,但她告知BBC新闻说,这一建议也合用于贸易街采办的胸罩,不外她指出,活动胸罩应当洗得更勤一些。
"Machine washing can destroy things like delicate lace or silks," she says. "It can also make the wires pop out, it can make the colors fade, and if it's got a moulded cup it can make it go all misshapen."
她说:“机洗会粉碎精美的蕾丝或丝绸这类娇贵衣物,还会让钢丝外露,使亵服退色,若是亵服带有塑形罩杯,机洗会致使罩杯变形。”
If you absolutely must machine wash, she adds: "Always do up the hook and eyes to stop any snagging, use a lingerie bag, don't wash with too much heat, and reshape when it's out and hang it to dry or lie it on a flat surface."
若是你必然要机洗的话,她弥补道:“必然要把挂钩和排扣扣好,避免亵服被钩破,将亵服放洗衣袋中清洗,不要用过热的水,在掏出洗好的亵服时要把罩杯外形调剂好,吊挂或平展晾干。”
But most importantly - never, ever, tumble dry.
但最主要的是——永久永久不要用洗衣机把亵服甩干。
Leave your jeans alone
别洗牛崽裤
Sarah Clayton, head of the Love Your Clothes campaign by environmental charity Wrap, also suggests not washing your jeans, but airing them between wears instead: "If they have a stain you could try spot-cleaning them with water rather than washing the whole garment."
环保慈善机构Wrap倡议的“珍重你的衣服”宣扬勾当的领头人莎拉·克莱顿建议不要清洗牛崽裤,穿戴后在透风处晾晒便可:“若是牛崽裤上有污渍,你可以零丁用水清洗脏失落的这一块,而不是清洗整件牛崽裤。”
Letting your jeans fester unwashed may sound a bit unsavoury, but one man in the know swears by it - Chip Bergh, the CEO of Levi's.
让牛崽裤放着发臭或许听上往有点恶心,但有位行业内部人士却极为推重这类做法——这小我就是李维斯的首席履行官奇普·伯格。
People were a bit disturbed in May 2014 when Mr Bergh proudly declared that the pair of jeans he was wearing at the time had never been washed.
2014年5月,当伯格师长教师高傲地传播鼓吹本身那时身穿的那条牛崽裤历来没洗过期,人们都感应有些难以接管。
Fast-forward almost five years to March this year, and he told the US broadcaster CNN that he still hadn't washed them - despite the pair now being about 10 years old.
时候快进到本年3月,快要五年曩昔了,伯格师长教师告知美国CNN说,他这条裤子仍是没有洗,虽然这条牛崽裤已买了十年。
Prof Groves agrees with Mr Bergh, and recommends sticking jeans in the freezer in order to kill germs instead.
格罗夫斯传授认同伯格的做法,并建议将牛崽裤放在冰箱里杀菌。
"Most people I know, when it comes to their denim, don't wash it at all," he says. "Which might seem strange - it's a pair of jeans that they might wear every day. But it's usually because they don't want the color to fade."
“我熟悉的年夜大都人都不洗牛崽裤,”他说,“这或许看起来有些奇异——这可是他们每天穿的牛崽裤。但他们的来由凡是是不想让牛崽裤退色。”
This, he says, is an attitude he hopes people will apply to all of their clothes - not just their jeans.
他说,但愿人们可以用这类立场来看待所有衣服,而不只是牛崽裤。